Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) and Michael McCoy strongly suggest riding southbound (sobo) on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route (GDMBR). Their reasoning is sound and I do not have any disagreements with it, except they suggest that it will be too hot in the Chihuahuan Desert if you leave nobo much later than May 1.
Some years that might be true, but you will probably only spend one day in the desert if you ride like Scott and Paula http://www.topofusion.com/, which I don't think most GDMBR riders can do fully loaded. Scott and Paula had a friend drop them off at Antelope Wells and their gear off at a motel in Silver City, which is about 125 miles away. It is certainly a tribute to their youth and their high level of fitness that they accomplished this distance against the strong headwinds they encountered on their first day out.
Most of us nobos are going to take about two or three days to ride either from Antelope Wells or Columbus to Silver City. So even when it is as hot as Hades, if you stay well hydrated, then you will be out of the intense heat before you know it.
What does "stay well hydrated" mean? It probably does not mean quite the same thing to a desert rat as to someone not accustom to the desert. Remember that you can only drink so much water without literally drowning yourself. A rule of thumb we use around here is to sip or drink fluid at least every ten minutes so that you have drunk about a liter per hour.
Before you start your ride, whether you are thirsty or not, drink a liter of fluid with something like Accelerade or Endurox R4 mixed in. For me the Accelerade or Endurox R4 works well to help me drink more and to replace stuff I lose in my sweat. I like Gatorade Endurance too, but it only works for me up to about 95 degrees F in these arid conditions. The Accelerade or the Endura Rx4 also supply the right balance of carbohydrates to protein. So they are feeding my glycogen depleted muscles too. They are part of my nutrition plan, but I will blog about that later. You must experiment and find what products work for you - ahead of time!
As I mentioned above I like the Gatorade Endurance too, but it just does not work as well to keep me from bonking in the higher temperatures after about four or five hours of moderate exertion. I like the Lemon-Lime better than the Orange, because the Orange leaves a disgusting orange crust around my mouth. Maybe you would like that crusty stuff? Each to his or her own likes and dislikes. It is just not my style.
You can also try to supplement with some gel, but if you wait too long to use it then you might already be too spent to recover without a few hours of rest. Hydrapak http://www.hydrapak.com/ has a new "Gel-Bot" bottle that fits inside a regular water bottle and gives you a little hit of gel as you drink. I have not tried it, but it sounds promising. I am not sure it is a solution for a long-haul ride like the GDMBR due to resupply issues. Nevertheless, in the beginning it might get you over the first few humps as you acclimate to the conditions.
The main caution with your hydration system is that you have got to keep it clean. It is bad enough that you might have to filter and purify water out of a algae filled stock tank or a mud puddle; if you don't keep your bottles, lids, tubes, water packs clean, then it will not be long before you are real sick. Chlorine bleach works well, or make your own with a MSR Miox purifier. Be careful not to touch a contaminated filter/purifier to anything you are going to drink or eat from.
The symptoms from contaminated water, from food poisoning, and from severe dehydration look and feel about the same. In fact with the projectile vomiting and intense diarrhea the "end" results will be exactly the same in no time. If someone does not get you to a hospital quickly for an IV and other appropriate treatment, then may die soon of "un-natural causes."
Apparently most people have some level of awareness of this and the other risks of riding in the desert when it is particularly hot. That is why they go sobo later in the year during the rainy season when the desert cools off a little.
Even though there is a lot more Border Patrol and National Guard presence in the Bootheel region of New Mexico since 9/11/01, do not count on them to save your butt. They may not get there in time.
Many people grossly underestimate the amount of fluid they must carry in desert conditions. The math is simple. If you are going to ride for "x" number of hours, then you need to have "x" liters of water on board. You say: "Hey, wait a doggone minute!" "That means I need to carry five or six liters of water for the day?!" No, actually you need to have at least 8 liters (about 2 gallons) per person per day in the desert. That leaves a little for cooking, hygiene, and wound care (hopefully not already). But, being the mathematician, you say: "That is about 16 pounds of water!" I say: "It would be better if you carried a little more than that."
The most I have ever personally carried for about 50 miles is 48 pounds of water plus food and camping gear. For the next 50 miles including a significant divide crossing, I carried about 20 pounds of water plus everything else. I wanted to see if I could do it and whether the bike and trailer could handle it. I certainly hope I don't have to do that very often, but I know I can if I have to.
My point is that ACA and Michael McCoy are right, for most people sobo is the best way to travel on the GDMBR. Especially for Eskimos. On the other hand, for desert rats, or those willing to temporarily adopt a desert rat lifestyle by training to carry a lot of water and drink it at a rate of about one liter per hour, nobo in late May or early June is fine. You also have to learn to moderate your level of exertion so that you do not lose more fluid than your body can absorb. That is harder to do without practice in actual conditions.
"Should I wear white to reflect the heat?" White is okay, but be aware that it is also reflecting the UV. So, you have to be particularly careful about using sunblock under your nose and chin because your sun visor cannot protect you from reflected UV off your white clothes.
Believe it or not I ride in a long sleeve shirt in the middle of the summer. My profile picture was taken mid-morning in early August. Notice that I am wearing a long sleeved shirt. Not only am I protecting my arms from the intense UV light (that picture was taken at an elevation over 8000 feet and significantly less atmospheric protection), but the evaporation off the shirt helps keep me aware of how much fluid I am losing from my body. In this climate you do not even realize you are sweating. It evaporates so fast off bare skin that you are completely unaware of the fluid loss until you are too dehydrated to make up the difference fast enough.
Remember, you can loose fluid faster than your body can absorb it. You have to balance your exertion with you ability to replace the fluid lost.
I will also be testing a little bandanna like thing that is filled with water holding crystals that absorb an enormous amount of water and release it slowly. BluBandoo® Cooling Neckbandoo: http://www.campmor.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?catalogId=40000000226&storeId=226&categoryId=61411&langId=-1&parent_category_rn=61294
I guess you can use them on your head too like a sweat band. It is too cold to try this thing out right now. However, I have ridden with others who use these things and swear by them. Apparently when worn around the neck it helps to keep the carotid arteries a little cooler, but it is no substitute for proper hydration.
I got an email from someone this morning telling me that they were going to ride from Antelope Wells in early April and arrive in Roosville at the beginning of June.
A slightly adapted version of my response is what follows. After he received my response, he emailed me back to let me know he is really just scouting the route in preparation for the GDR in June. Nevertheless, there may be others out there who think they can start earlier than the last week in May. So, here is my opinion on starting nobo earlier than late May.
Unless you are traveling off the GDMBR most of the way, I don’t think you will be able to make it through that early. We are leaving on May 22nd and I expect snow and mud in northern New Mexico and deeper snow on Indiana Pass in southern Colorado. I have lived in New Mexico since 1972, and I respectfully disagree with ACA and Michael McCoy’s opinion about the best time to travel northbound (nobo). It is always dicey in New Mexico, but I would rather put up with 2-3 days of 90-100 degree F weather from Antelope Wells (or Columbus) to Silver City than getting buried in mud up to my yin yang a little further north.
That mud is the same mud they use to make adobe bricks. It is so sticky that in a few seconds you can totally clog your wheels and drive train. It quickly brings you to a dead stop. However, if you insist on going through it, and work at a little, you can even break your derailleur hanger and pull your derailleur into your spokes. It is not trivial, and there is a lot of documentation (pictures, video, and tales of woe) to prove it. If you need help finding the documentation on the Internet, then email me back and I will find it for you. I have tried to be a “hero” and ride through the “baby poop.” I made it about 10 feet!
With that said, I am a teacher so my travel window to do the whole GDMBR necessitates a nobo version unless I do a “flip-flop.” That means you start at one end, and then as conditions dictate “flip” to the other end and travel back to where you “flopped.” You can also do a “leap-frog” the way many nobo Continental Divide Trail (CDT) hikers do when they hike into winter conditions in the San Juan Mountain’s in southern Colorado. They “hop” up to someplace like Rawlins, Wyoming and do the Great Basin desert and then “hop” back to Colorado later in the season. That could add a lot of expense to the trip, but that is how they have to do it when winter conditions rule.
Even though it seems to be a “La Nina” winter (www.srh.noaa.gov/abq/features/LaNinaWinter/LaNina&NMprecip.php), I would prefer to take my chances finding water, than having water find me on those back “roads.” Actually, I have trained to carry up to 5 gallons of water plus my food (2 pounds or 4000 calories per day per person) and camping gear. If it is hot then it will take at least 2 gallons per person per day. You might get to Cuba, New Mexico if you stick to the alternative routes, but I don’t think you will get through the Jemez Mountains between Cuba and Abiquiu, and definitely not through the San Juan Mountains in southern Colorado that early in the year. However, there are paved and plowed roads that circumnavigate the GDMBR, but it seems to me that that defeats the purpose of the GDMBR. That would be the (yet to be created) Great Divide Road Bike Route, and perhaps that is what you actually have in mind?
I hope I am totally wrong, but just in case you may want to reconsider your timing. It is very unforgiving country, and you can go days without seeing anyone else. There is a good reason they call one area “Lonesome Mesa.” Even if you carry a SPOT www.findmespot.com/default.aspx help may not be able to get to you for several days. That is how bad the mud can get! They will probably have to travel by horseback. If they have to bring in a helicopter, you will probably get charged for the ride and it will reflect poorly on the rest of us schmucks who will be coming through later.
I have heard the horror stories from the BLM people here in Albuquerque, and also from the cowboys and ranchers that I have met in my travels on those back country “roads.” They are not too thrilled about rescuing people. Some ranchers have even tried to get the route radically changed so they won’t have to deal with these problems.
I don’t even think a Surly Pugsley with Endomorph tires can float over that mud. Even if it could, you would have to be a Son of Hercules to ride it loaded very far under those conditions. Basically, you had better hope that it freezes at night so that you can ride over frozen mud. That is what folks who deal with these conditions often do. Also, I hope you are good at repacking bearings, because if you don’t take them apart, clean them up and repack them with grease, then the dirt from the mud will pulverize the bearings and cups before long. Even “sealed” cartridges get contaminated and destroyed in these conditions. If you do the (yet to be created) “road” version – the GDRBR, be sure to look at the maintenance advice for cold weather conditions at www.icebike.org/Equipment/freehub.htm. You don’t want the grease in your wheel hubs, or your freehub freezing up. That will destroy them pretty quickly.
These are some of the reasons why I am leaving around May 22nd on a nobo version of the GDMBR. I won’t even get into bears coming out of hibernation and your opportunity to be their first meal in months!
Enough said?
Ride to Eat. Eat to Ride. Ride the Great Divide!
(At the right time of the year, with the appropriate training and with excellent preparation!)