Friday the 13th

When I awoke the back and inside aspect of my knees itched and burned badly. I had some kind of rash that was spreading up my legs.




Nevertheless, I needed to attend to the Mule before I would be able to do any more climbing. The rear derailleur hanger was twisted even worse than I originally thought. So after breaking camp I replaced it.




If possible I wanted to get some pictures of the Cumbres Toltec coal-fired steam engine tourist train. So before eating breakfast I hurriedly rode to the tracks. There was mud on the tracks from bicycles and at least one motorcycle so I knew that it had not passed yet. However, I did not know whether it operated every day. When the Mule saw yet another huge snow drift completely blocking the road she wanted to stay on the tracks and commit suicide.




While I waited for the train I filtered some water from the side of the road and sat down to eat some breakfast. Then, in the distance, I heard the train's horn blasting through the cool mountain air. It looked like a toy train coming up the mountain from Chama, New Mexico. I got into position and fired away with my camera as happy tourists waved and took my picture. It wasn't the Amtrak, but I was ready to hop aboard as it sped by.













I pushed and shoved the Mule around two more huge snow banks that completely blocked the road. By now I was accustomed to pushing up 15-18% grades to maneuver around the drifts. Up near the highway I determined that the prevailing wind was blowing toward Horca, so that is the direction I rode. I was so sick of the wind that I would ride a 100 miles in the wrong direction as long as it was to my back and I was headed to a restaurant.





On my way up La Manga Pass a Race Across America rider caught and passed me. He was all twinkied up on his racing bike while I was spinning the Mule in my sandals between 6-7 mph. It was only a 5% grade on asphalt. Compared with the conditions I had been riding in I felt like I was cheating, but it was the official GDMBR. As he passed he told me that he was very impressed. I hope I inspired him to ride a little harder.

It was quite a contrast between us. I had not shaved or bathed in a week and I had the b.o. to prove it. He looked well groomed and his support vehicle, handlers, and mechanic were in a vehicle constantly nearby. On the other hand I had, I hoped, everything I needed to get from Mexico to Canada on the Mule, and I was completely self-supported. I was impressed too, because Race Across Ameria is an awesome race. I hope they have fun doing it.

About halfway to Horca I pulled into a saloon steakhouse. The stairs were broken and the railings were busted up. I looked down on the ground and there was an open knife. Although it seemed like a pretty good watering hole they were closed. Hungry and disappointed I continued up La Manga Pass and down the other side to Horca, Colorado. You may be as disappointed as me to learn that the reason the stairs and railings were broken was from the snow removal equipment. Nevertheless, I did pickup a nice tactical weapon in the parking lot.










Outside the Red Bear Restaurant and Store in Horca I found a payphone. I had not talked to my wife in a week. For 50 cents I had three precious minutes. I gave her the payphone number and she called me back. She was not pleased that I had not been with the group except for one night in the past week. Even though she is confident of my survival skills she was especially upset that I crossed Brazos Ridge under such adverse conditions by myself. I explained to her that we had bad information and did not know what we were getting into until it was too late to turn around.

Nevertheless, I was the one to pull the plug on the trip. The rash was spreading up towards my groin and I needed medical attention.

I also learned that three of the five passes that we needed to cross in Colorado were still officially closed. Again it sounded like a lot blarney had been passed on to us about crossing the passes earlier. So now it was turning into a road tour instead of a mountain bike tour through Colorado. Some years you just cannot get through the San Juan Mountains.

The Tour Divide racers have left Banff, Alberta, and next week the Great Divide Race (GDR) starts from Roosville, Montana. From what I saw and experienced I don't think the snow will be melted enough even in three weeks. It is still late winter/early spring conditions in the high country. Apparently summer was cancelled this year.

With the decision to go home made I went in to the Red Bear Restaurant to eat. I was now down 17 pounds in three weeks. I could not even come close to consuming enough calories for the amount of energy I spent each day. The proprietor had seen many hungry cyclists come through and it did not phase him when I said I would probably eat two or three meals while I waited for my wife to drive about 200 miles from Albuquerque. He knew it was absolutely true.

"For my first meal I'll start with the steak sandwich and fries." That was followed by a slice of cherry pie and vanilla ice cream and two or three glasses of Pepsi. I engaged a cowboy in a conversation about ranching as I drank three or four cups of coffee. "Now I am ready for the menu again." After a huge hamburger and another serving of fries chased down with a couple more glasses of Pepsi I wasn't quite as hungry as before.

It is about a 3-1/2 hour drive up from Albuquerque to Horca, and it was getting close to time to get the Mule ready to travel. Before long my wife arrived. She had already diagnosed my skin rash as Impetigo by our telephone conversation, but upon inspection she changed her "diagnosis." We got home around 10:30 last night. I shaved and showered and the burning and itching was almost unbearable. After trying some Tinactin we figured it might be a fungal infection, but on Monday I will try to get an appointment with my doctor.

So after three weeks and about 706 miles I am done for now. I may try to leap frog Colorado or even try a flip-flop by going north and riding sobo. For sure I agree that northern New Mexico should be done sobo, because it feels like I have done a tremendous amount of climbing this past week. I talked to one of the remaining group members this morning and they are probably going to take two weeks off and then start in Banff and head sobo. I might have the opportunity to join them, but I would not have time to complete the route this summer.

I need a few days to sort things out and get some medical treatment for my skin rash. I doubt if I am done with the GDMBR, but I am willing to be sensible about it. I prefer a little more relaxed pace so I can take lots of pictures. At the same time I am in pretty good physical shape, and it would be a shame to have to start all over again in the training process.

On the other hand, I am more interested in maintaining a healthy life-style than sacrificing my health to a silly goal. As much as possible I would prefer to enjoy the journey. I am not making any decisions for at least a couple of days.